Life is Great

The Delicious Appreciations of Pick Yin

Not exactly predictable.
Has enough brains for codes
(but can be completely clueless on other more important matters).
Likes her Joe (and her man?) black, her chocolate dark and her food spicy.
“Quam bene vivas refert, non quam diu.” — Seneca

Total Posts   191      Last Updated   23 November 2015 12:00 PM (GMT +8)

Friday, December 30, 2011


Thank You



2011 has been fun for us.

Talking so much about food not only brought us knowledge and growth in creativity but priceless new friendships and experiences we'd probably miss had it not been for this humble space. We hope you had as much good times as we did and didn't gain as many dress size as I.



Update 31/12/2011: Click on the individual photos to go to the recipes posted this year.


Thank you for spending time here and putting up with my crappy comment feature. Thank you for trying out the recipes, bearing with things not working out perfectly and not giving up trying again. Thank you for putting up with my silly questions and endless kitchen dramas.

I have grand plans for the year to come - one of them is being able to fit into my old clothes again but don't worry, I'm not going to rain on you any green salad, mushy soup and flourless cake recipes anytime soon. I'm sure you have your set of schemes to complete in the next 12 months.

In any case, we wish you Happy New Year, here's to a better one in 2012!

Continue reading Thank You


Wednesday, December 28, 2011


Aromatic Christmas Ham with Chili Jam



Nigella Lawson Aromatic Christmas Ham Chili Jam


So, Christmas came and went, the big feasts cooked and downed and Boxing Day's excuses to spend more money made peace with. You're probably sitting in a cozy corner with a book in one hand and a mug of hot chocolate in the other, planning to do next to nothing and fix the next few dinners out of leftovers from the fridge till the next year arrives. Well, I had such grand plans, not to go into the kitchen will New Years Eve, except our leftovers are running out, even the cake and what-I-thought-was-a-ot-of cookies. Even when I cooked this caveman-sized leg of ham and 2 kilograms of potatoes for dinner on Christmas Eve.

Nigella Lawson Aromatic Christmas Ham Chili Jam


As I hummed to Frank Sinatra and Bing Crosby's sappy carols while portioning cookies and wrapping presents the two nights before Christmas, Vijay commented that this year I'm quite Christmassy. I think that was a fair observation, as were all his various notes of me (nothing escapes him) and I blame Nigella's Christmas Kitchen for it. Having watched the entire series while away for work in Shanghai months before, I was already planning on roasting either poussins, a ham or duck this year. The visiting in-laws also bumped up my festive mood - this would be the first time I cook a full dinner for Vijay's parents. So I settled on the ham, figuring it takes the least effort, judging from how Ms Lawson simply dumped the whole thing into a huge pot with some herbs and proceeded to leave it alone for 3 hours. It doesn't requiring too much space, the fuss of brining (after which I'd spend nights worrying about the Ziploc bag bursting in the fridge) or the work of stuffing.

Nigella Lawson Aromatic Christmas Ham Chili Jam Nigella Lawson Aromatic Christmas Ham Chili Jam


Except, I managed to somehow order a cooked smoked ham instead of mildly cured gammon. Then the 4.5 kilo piece of Fred-Flintstone-worthy meat broke the bottom shelf of my tiny fridge and had to be housed in the fresh produce bin while all the vegetables and fruits migrate upstairs. After a panicky phone call to my butcher and scoring the Net for some answers, I mellowed down a little and forced myself into a Zen mode. I even made a to-do list like Ms Lawson advised. After the presents went under the tree, I prepared a pot of her cranberry apple chutney and canned a few jars of her much raved about chili jam. I even piped funky flakes onto the cake and added a last minute item into the dinner menu.

Nigella Lawson Aromatic Christmas Ham Chili Jam


Come dinner prep day, with my mother-in-law padding around the kitchen entertaining me with queries while Vijay manages his dad with some pear cider and talks on Malaysian politics, I poached the cooked ham slowly for an hour before prepping it for the glaze. Pioneer Woman's duchess potatoes took me for a short ride though - I managed to miss a few lumps even after passing them through a drum sieve, not fun when you have to pipe them out. As I assigned my photographer to shoot the meat, the potato drama had to be managed out of the kitchen but all ended well as we sat down to eat before anyone passed out from hunger. Even the onion and pomegranate relish made it to the table. As Ma and Pa asked for seconds over their glasses of Glögg and a Tamil movie on the tele, the day's work was done and I sank onto the couch, feet up with content. Ma even went on the plane with a bottle of chutney, cuts of ham for Vijay's brother and a good bit of fruit cake alongside her two huge bags of heist from Mustafa.

Nigella Lawson Aromatic Christmas Ham Chili Jam


We hope your Christmas was a blast too, go easy on those leftovers now, although I'm in no way implying you should resign yourself to 'healthy' eating anytime soon. That, as Shirley wisely pointed out, starts for me only after the Chinese Lunar New Year.
Aromatic Christmas Ham [Printer Friendly Version]

Ham and chili jam recipes adapted barely from Nigella Lawson's Christmas Kitchen.

Note: The Christmas ham recipe is somehow not included in Nigella's official site. I found the source in Lifestyle Food AU very similar to her video so I referred to that (I don't have her book). Raw gammon is not readily available in all countries and although available in Singapore, I accidentally ordered a fully smoked ham. If you're using raw gammon, do follow the original recipe and boil the meat for at least 3 hours. I doubled the glaze recipe, finding the original portion insufficient to fully cover the ham.
Serves 10.

  • 1 (4.5-6.5 kilograms) smoked gammon, with knuckle bone
  • 250 milliliters red wine
  • enough water to cover the meat (depending on size of ham and pot)
  • 1 large onion, halved
  • 2 cloves garlic (unpeeled)
  • 1 head fennel, halved
  • 2 star anise
  • 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
  • 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
  • 1 tablespoon mixed peppercorns (I used a mixture of pink and black)

For the glaze:
  • 20 whole cloves (depending on size of ham)
  • 8 heaped tablespoons cranberry or redcurrant jelly
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
  • 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

Put all the ingredients, except those for the glaze, into a large pot, on the stove but off the heat, adding water until the ham is covered. Turn on the heat and bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to a very slow simmer and partially cover the pan. Cook for about 1 hour. (If using raw gammon, cook for about 3 1/2 hours as per the original recipe.)

Preheat the oven to 200°C (if using convection, turn fan on)/gas mark 6 with a wire rack at the lower third. Lift the ham gently out of the hot liquid, sit it on a board and let it cool slightly but not too much. You should be able to touch it without burning yourself. With a sharp paring knife, strip off the rind and a little of the fat layer if it’s very thick, but make sure to leave a thin layer of fat (you don't want a dry ham). Use the same knife to score a diamond pattern on the remaining fat on the ham, in lines about 2 centimeters apart. Stud the points of each diamond with a clove.

Put the cranberry or redcurrant jelly, cinnamon, paprika and red wine vinegar into a small saucepan and whisk together over a high heat, bringing it to the boil. Let the pan bubble away, for about 5 minutes, so that the glaze reduces to a thick syrupy consistency that will coat the fat on the ham. (Be sure to let the glaze thicken, another it will not stick to the surface of the ham.) Place the ham in a roasting tin lined with foil, as the sugar in the glaze will burn in the oven as it drips off. Pour the glaze over the diamond-studded ham, then put it in the oven for about 15 minutes, or until the glazed fat has caught and burnished. Take the ham out of the oven and sit it on a wooden board to cool for about 2–3 hours before carving.


Chili Jam

Note: I couldn't find jam sugar so I used pectin mixed with regular castor sugar. In Singapore, pectin is available from Phoon Huat and I'm sure most other baking supply stores. If using jam sugar, the original recipe calls for 1 kilogram. Be sure to use either that or pectin in this recipe else your jam will not set.
Yield: About 1.5 liters

  • 150 grams long fresh red chilies, each deseeded and cut into about 4 pieces
  • 150g red peppers, cored, deseeded and cut into rough chunks
  • 1 kilograms castor sugar
  • 15 grams pectin (this is ideal for me, for a runnier jam use 10 grams and up to 20 grams for a sturdier consistency)
  • 600 milliliters cider vinegar
  • sealable canning jars, with vinegar-proof lid, such as Kilner jar or re-usable pickle jar

Sterilize your canning jars and leave to cool. Put the chilies into a food processor and pulse until they are finely chopped. Add the chunks of red pepper and pulse again until you have a vibrantly red-flecked processor bowl.

In a wide medium pot, mix the sugar with the pectin well. Pour over vinegar. Turn on heat to low and dissolve the sugar in the vinegar without stirring. Once the sugar has dissolved, scrape the chili pepper mixture out of the processor bowl and add to the pot. Bring mixture to the boil, then lower heat to leave it at a rollicking boil for 10 minutes or until mixture reaches at least 105°C/220°F on a sugar/candy thermometer. (Be careful not to let the jam boil over.)

Take the pan off the heat and allow it cool. The mixture will become more syrupy, then from syrup to viscous and from viscous to jelly-like as it cools completely. After about 40 minutes, or once the red flecks are more or less have evenly dispersed in the jelly (as the liquid firms up, the hints of chili and pepper start being suspended in it rather than floating on it), ladle the jam into your prepared jars. You can stir it gently at this stage. Seal jars tightly.

Do ahead: Chili jam will keep for up to 1 year at room temperature as long as you have sterilized the jars properly and sealed them firmly.




Continue reading Aromatic Christmas Ham with Chili Jam


Saturday, December 24, 2011


Fruit Cake





The past few days were madness. I was caught in the rain countless of times and barely avoided an onset of flu. The shops were filled with mobs, the train service went kaput a few times and Orchard Road flooded (yes, again). However, yours truly survived, coming home with presents, groceries enough to feed an army and even a couple of ornaments for the tree. A jar of apple cranberry chutney and bottles of chili jam were gotten over with, the goodies wrapped and stuck under the tree, the house cleaned to a presentable state for Vijay's parent's visit. I even managed to bake this cake.




Taken from a page of my mother's battered old recipe notebook, this was my late father's favorite of all her baked goods. I'm pretty sure it came from the back of a Big Sister Fruit Mix box, just like most of the recipes of our mothers. You can really whip this up in no time. There is no boiling, separating of eggs, basting with booze and other hair pulling tricks. Only if you wish, and especially if you have a bottle of stray rum, cognac or brandy lying around, make the drunken version. After a little over an hour of having your house smelling like Christmas, you will be reward with a moist, just spiced enough cake to be savored in small bites after a possible mayhem of turkey, ham and lamb roasts.



Except if you, like me, decided to spend another (few) hours fiddling with royal icing, piping nozzle, sugar sprinkles and various designs of snowflakes. In my defense, it was dark and raining yesterday (yes, nothing new to report here) and I got a little carried away after dressing up the border of the cake. Before I knew it, there were four sizes of snowflakes, employment of a pair of tweezers and it was time for dinner by the time I was done. It is, after all, Christmas. This is probably the only time I would bother with royal icing.



Have a blessed Christmas with you and yours, now you'll have to excuse me. The ham (and parents) are waiting in the kitchen.
Fruit Cake [Printer Friendly Version]

Cake recipe from my mother, possibly from the back of a Big Sister's Fruit Mix box. Royal icing recipe adapted from Yossi Arefi-Afshar's Apt. 2B - Baking Co.
Yield: 1 8-inch round cake

Notes: For this cake I didn't use a boxed fruit mix but instead mixed up some dried blueberries, cranberries and sultanas. Though I've chosen to make an alcoholic version of this cake, my mother's recipe is booze free and equally good. You can steep the fruit mix in a warm concoction of orange juice, star anise, vinegar and palm sugar to give it an extra kick. Fruit cakes are best made ahead and allowed to mature in flavor for at least 2 days.

  • 375 grams fruit mix
  • 500 milliliters rum
  • 9 ounces all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon all spice (five spice powder is also good)
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 6 ounces light brown sugar
  • 7 ounces salted butter, at room temperature
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

In a sterilized canning jar, soak the fruit mix of your combination in the rum, ensuring that the fruits are submerged completely in the liquid. Cover tightly and let it sit anywhere between 2 weeks to a month. When ready to make the cake, strain the fruits the night before and let stand to dry. Preheat oven to 190°C with a rack at the lower third. Grease and line an 8-inch round cake tin, set aside.

Sift flour and baking powder into a medium bowl, fold in the prepared fruit mix, making sure all of them are well coated with flour. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar till smooth and light. Add in eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Scrape down sides and bottom of bowl well. Add in the spices and vanilla extract. Remove bowl from mixer. With a spatula, fold in the flour and fruit mixture gently. Pour batter into prepared tin.

Bake for 45 minutes or until cake is done. Cool on a wire rack completely before storage. Cake keeps up to a year in the freezer and 3 months in the refrigerator, wrapped well.

Royal Icing
  • 1 egg white
  • 1 3/4 cups icing sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice

Combine all the ingredients in the bowl of a mixer with a whisk. Beat with hand or stand mixer until stiff peaks form. Use immediately to decorate, covering bowl with a damp dish towel to avoid icing from drying up.




Continue reading Fruit Cake


Monday, December 19, 2011


David Leite's Consummate Chocolate Chip Cookie



david leite new york times consummate chocolate chip cookies


Since it's now less than a week before the force of Christmas be with us, I reckon I'd better come clean about something. These chocolate chip cookies were really what I wanted to make for my friend Jikon visiting from Australia last month, not these. The reason was simple. I've been given these for my last birthday and they were definitely worth all of David Leite's effort to research for the ultimate.

david leite new york times consummate chocolate chip cookies


They require you to lick your chocolate coated fingers after each cookie and then try very hard not to reach for the next one. Then there were those bits of sea salt flakes on top, courtesy of the ever wise Ms Greenspan. I kid you not, the night before our dinner appointment, I dreamt about these cookies in my sleep and quickly opened up my recipe bookmark as soon as I woke up.

david leite new york times consummate chocolate chip cookies


That was when I discovered I completely forgot about the 36 hours resting requirement, and found that I didn't have bread flour in my (presumably but apparently not so) complete pantry. For a split second I entertained the thought of modifying the recipe but dismissed the obviously desperate insensibility. I wanted the ultimate, not the common.

david leite new york times consummate chocolate chip cookies


As a result of my lack of planning, Jikon had to live with healthy morsels of blueberry, pecan and oats instead of these crack-like rounds of sweet toffee crunch laced with layers of oozing dark chocolate and the occasional hit of what tasted like the Dead Sea when you hit those sea salt flakes. Perhaps next time, all the more reason for him to come again.

david leite new york times consummate chocolate chip cookies


I made these before we left for Lake Toba and baked them after 24 hours of development. It wasn't because I couldn't wait for just another 12 hours, it was that I'd be at work on hour 36, then packing for the trip on hour 48. So it had to be 24 hours. Apparently it was the minimum requirement for the toffee flavor to mature. I wouldn't know for sure because I forgot to bake some the night the dough was mixed just to research myself. If you've baked these before I'm sure you have. Luckily for me, I had patience and am not really a raw cookie dough person. But let me tell you also, the results were worth the wait, especially if you bite some off warm. I skipped dinner the night these were baked. I think I had two. Only my dress size stopped further destruction.

david leite new york times consummate chocolate chip cookies


As I continue to plague you this month with an onslaught of cookie posts, this will be something chocolate to fill your jar or season greetings gift boxes. Speaking of giving, don't worry if you suddenly find that your sharing spirit has left the building after eating this for the first time. It happened to Deb, it happened to me, it will happen to you. When that happens, may the force of Yuletide be with you, so your loved ones can get lucky.
David Leite's Consummate Chocolate Chip Cookie [Printer Friendly Version]

Adapted barely from Deb Perelman's Smitten Kitchen, original recipe from David Leite via The New York Times.
Yield: 3 1/2 dozen 4-inch cookies.

Notes: If you're wondering about the seemingly huge yield, let me tell assure you my cookie dough did not mutate or multiply in the space of 24 hours. As per the comments of many who tried the recipe, the yield stated in the NYT article was inaccurate - even if you bake 5-inch cookies. Like Deb, I find the size of 4-inch cookies the best - they weigh about 2 ounces each (yes, I weighed each ball, hello OCD baker!). Stand the dough for about 10-15 minutes out of the fridge before rolling. Alternatively you can use Orangette's approach to roll out the balls prior to resting the dough.

There's no need to force coarse salt through a sieve, just mix them in with the rest of the sieved ingredients. I used a mixture of Valrhona's Araguani 72% and Abinao 85% chocolate fèves. If these are not available to you, look for other couverture chocolate discs which melt when baked, not the standard chocolate chips that keep their shape. The results would be different, as the traditional chips will not provide you Torres's 'layers of chocolate and cookie in every bite'.

  • 2 cups minus 2 tablespoons/8 1/2 ounces cake flour
  • 1 2/3 cups/8 1/2 ounces bread flour
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
  • 2 1/2 sticks/1 1/4 cups/10 ounces unsalted butter
  • 1 1/4 cups/10 ounces light brown sugar
  • 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons/8 ounces castor sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • 1 1/4 pounds/20 ounces bittersweet chocolate disks or fèves, at least 60% cacao content
  • Sea salt flakes

Sift flours, baking soda and baking powder into a bowl. Add the course salt to the mixture and set aside.

Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds. Fold chocolate pieces in and try to incorporate without breaking them. Press plastic wrap against dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. [Dough may be baked in batches and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.]

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350°F with the wire rack in the middle. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a nonstick baking mat. Set aside.

Scoop 6 2-ounce balls of dough onto the prepared baking sheet, making sure to turn horizontally any chocolate pieces that are poking up. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt flakes and bake until golden brown but still soft, about 18 to 20 minutes (mine took exactly 18 minutes). Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack and let stand for 10 minutes, then slip cookies onto another rack to cool a bit more. Repeat with as much of the remaining dough you wish, refrigerate the rest if not using all. Eat warm, with a paper napkin (as you can see, it will get pleasingly messy).




Continue reading David Leite's Consummate Chocolate Chip Cookie


Wednesday, December 14, 2011


Blueberry Pecan Oatmeal Cookies



Christmas Blueberry Pecan Oatmeal Coconut Cookies


Before we proceed with regular programming where I start telling you how some dried berries, flour, rolled oats, coconut and nuts partied together in these crunchy outside chewy inside rounds of somewhat breakfast worthy concoctions, allow me to indulge you with a preview of how we spent our recent short getaway. It involved a humongous 75,000 years old super volcanic lake, an island within an island on it, its beautiful Batak people and, needless to say, eye-opening, jaw-dropping local Batak food. Though most of my friends from Medan I've spoken to have never been to Danau Toba, I found it quite fetching, especially since I really prefer to dip into still fresh water instead of rocky salted waves. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, yours truly can't thread very well to keep herself afloat - even in a quiet lake I had to hang on to a beach ball.



After four days of waking up to this blue and serene calmness, we are now back to the grind in Singapore. Vijay quickly descended into a stage of post-vacation depression while I vegetated most of the day away yesterday, dragging myself to the kitchen only to boil water and half-heartedly stir up a mug of Milo. We didn't even bother with breakfast or lunch, taking naps instead. Luckily there are cookies, the only edible item in the house requiring just, in Nigella's words - "apply to face", which I specifically baked for this foreseen emergency before we hopped on the plane for Medan.

Christmas Blueberry Pecan Oatmeal Coconut Cookies


With only 11 days and counting to you-know-what day, chances are 'holiday baking' is marked with big red circles on your extra large calendar. If you'd like to stuff something other than mounds of chocolate, spiced ginger or peppermint into your cookie jars, this may just be what you're looking for. Having never baked oatmeal cookies before, I first saw these big fat ones at Sneh's and they had my name all over it because of one ingredient - coconut. I love coconut anything and if these are able to get some oatmeal into my system (as an alternative to this supershake), all the better. Yes, before you roll your eyes, there's also butter, sugar and corn syrup but no, it's 11 days to jingle bells and I won't apologize for butter and sugar, here and now.

Christmas Blueberry Pecan Oatmeal Coconut Cookies


More than half of these went away as gifts - some for a good friend visiting from Australia, some for Najah and quite a few into a care package for the sweet Joanne. December baking is all about sharing the love, so wrap your goodies up in pretty jars and shower your best peeps with some homemade, fuzzy warmness. In my books, a short run to the grocery store, a freezer stocked full with butter and a bit of workout around the oven to prepare boxes of edible present sound like a better deal than elbowing my way through the crazy year-end sale-crowds at Orchard Road.

Christmas Blueberry Pecan Oatmeal Coconut Cookies


If all goes well (read: when I snap out of the current back-from-holiday state of feeling like some leafy greens), cookie month at Life is Great will bring you more recipes next week. Meanwhile, I'll have to attend to the skin peeling off my sunburned face, loads of still damp Toba-soaked laundry and a mild case of sambal Batak withdrawal (more about the sambal soon, I promise).
Blueberry Pecan Oatmeal Cookies [Printer Friendly Version]

Recipe adapted barely from Sneh Roy's Big Fat Pecan And Sultana Cookies at Cook Republic.
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 15 minutes
Yield: 10 giant 10-cm round cookies or 20 smaller 6-cm round cookies

  • 1 1/2 cups rolled oats
  • 1/2 cup desiccated coconut
  • 1 cup pecans, roughly chopped
  • 1 cup dried blueberries
  • 1 1/2 cups plain flour
  • 140 grams salted butter
  • 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup light corn syrup
  • 2 tablespoons boiling water
  • 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

Preheat oven to 160°C/140°C fan with a wire rack placed in the middle. Grease or line two large baking trays with parchment.

In a large mixing bowl, combine oats, coconut, flour, pecans and blueberries. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter, sugar and corn syrup, stirring constantly until smooth and combined, about 3-4 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly. In a small bowl, whisk boiling water and bicarbonate of soda. Stir this into the butter mixture with a whisk. Pour butter mixture into the dry ingredients and mix well together with a spatula until combined.

At this point, you may freeze the cookie dough, wrapped in baking/wax paper and layers of cling wrap, should you wish to bake it later, on Christmas Eve perhaps? If you want to bake straight away, roll the dough into 10 to 20 balls depending on the size of cookie you want. Place on prepared trays and flatten each ball slightly with the heel of your palm. Bake for 15 minutes. Cool on trays until firm, about 2-3 minutes, before storing in air tight containers.




Continue reading Blueberry Pecan Oatmeal Cookies


Tuesday, December 06, 2011


Roasted Mushroom Risotto



Italian Roasted Mushroom Risotto


I remember my first plate of risotto. It was lunch at an Italian restaurant in a hotel back in Kuala Lumpur where I was attending a hackers conference. (Yes, you read that right. In that other aspect of my life, I'm in a total nerd/geek zone.) The rice, like the restaurant I found myself in, was quite memorable. Cooked just to the right doneness and seasoned well enough without overpowering blobs of cheese, that quiet lunch alone many years ago, with a glass of red and some crusty bread, is fresh in my mind till this day. The same can't be said about the following risotto adventures after that.

Italian Roasted Mushroom Risotto

Italian Roasted Mushroom Risotto


I order the dish whenever the restaurant we dine in serves it. Vijay would ask me why I'd torture myself and risk being disappointed. While it's true that risotto is labor intensive and requires a lot of attention, I think it's not difficult to get right (despite what shows like Gordon Ramsay's Hell's Kitchen and Masterchef make us believe). A good risotto for me would make my day and beat all other fancy menu items offered. Topped with a piece of pan-seared fish, some grilled shrimps or just the classic mélange of mushrooms; flavored with all the goodness of stock; brought to life with just a little spike of citrus, and made completely suggestive with a few drops of extra virgin olive oil, it is essentially an Italian nonna's love on a plate.

Italian Roasted Mushroom Risotto


While I eat this out often enough to bore my other half with my unfortunate disenchantment every time it came just slightly (in a few occasions overly) underdone with that annoying crunchiness caught within the rice grains, I wasn't sure how I would fare should I cook it myself. The chance came when that box of chanterelle mushrooms 'found' its way into my kitchen. By 'found', of course I'm referring to one of those grab-first-and-think-of-what-to-do-with-it-later impulse purchase episodes which attacked me, similar to how I 'found' the yuzu. Since the chanterelle itself was a special splurge, I wanted to make something in which it could be the star instead of playing second fiddle. I didn't have a risotto recipe then but vaguely recalled how Jamie Oliver, under the tutelage of his 'Italian father' Gennaro Contaldo, was taught to cook a pan of mushroom risotto with much gusto. Then of course there's the image of George Calombaris going on about how it's best to use carnaroli rice over arborio for a better result and not be too overzealous with the stirring action, just gently agitating and coaxing the starch out of each grain of rice.

Italian Roasted Mushroom Risotto


Let me assure you that no rocket science stands between you and your best plate of risotto. All it takes is some patience to get busy around a hot stove. Like conjuring a jar of XO sauce, making a good dry curry or whipping up some lemon curd, it's really just about 30 minutes of off-and-on stirring - I even managed to do the dishes in between each ladle of stock. The key point is to know when to stop cooking - and not stop short. At the 25 minute mark, the rice should look soft, expanded and creamy. Spoon out some to taste and continue with more stock if it's not quite there yet.

Italian Roasted Mushroom Risotto


I roasted the mushrooms instead of grilling them because I only have two burners on my stove. With one hob to keep a pot of warm stock and the other to cook the rice, it would be impossible to cook the chanterelles on a grill pan. All the sweat and cook time synchronizing feat was worth it, as I watched Vijay wolf down his better-than-normal-vegetarian-Friday-lunch. At last, the discussion was about how awesome the meal was and not how the chef could possibly mess up a plate of rice in what was supposed to be a respectable restaurant. There was a bit of leftover rice on my plate and even that was great reheated in a low oven later in the evening. Like Shirley, I see more risotto nights in the near future, perhaps the next one black with squid ink and baby octopus.
Roasted Mushroom Risotto [Printer Friendly Version]

Recipe adapted barely from Jamie Oliver's Grilled Mushroom Risotto, roasted mushroom adapted from Deb Perelman's Garlic Butter Roasted Mushrooms.
Serves 4-6

Notes: I would say Jamie's recipe serves 6 quite comfortably so do scale down the recipe according to your needs (risotto rice expands quite substantially). The roasted mushrooms would serve 4 so adjust the recipe should you be making the full risotto amount for 6, to keep a good ratio of roasted mushrooms versus rice. I added the zest of a lemon just before stirring in the cheese, it lifted the risotto beautifully. Never waste the zest of a fresh citrus! For a halal version, simply replace the wine with more stock.

I have combined the methods of preparing the rice and roasted mushrooms in the order I've cooked them, so that both are done at the same time to serve fresh and warm. Alternatively you can put the wild mushrooms to roast first. When it's done, turn the oven off but keep the door slightly ajar. When the rice is done, remove the still warm roasted mushrooms, dress them and serve together.

For the risotto:
  • 1 1/2 to 2 liters hot chicken stock (in this case, I used mushroom stock for a vegetarian version)
  • a handful of dried porcini mushrooms
  • olive oil
  • 2 small onions, peeled and finely chopped
  • 3 sticks of celery, trimmed and finely chopped
  • 400 grams risotto rice
  • 150 milliliters vermouth/white wine (I used Muscat)
  • sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 25 grams butter
  • 2 nice handfuls of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • salt and pepper to taste

For the roasted mushrooms:
  • 4 large handfuls of wild mushrooms (shiitake/girolle/chestnut/oyster works well, I used chanterelles), cleaned and if necessary, sliced
  • 3 large garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 30 grams butter, cut into small pieces
  • juice of 1 lemon (from the zested lemon for the risotto)
  • a few sprigs of fresh chervil, tarragon or parsley, leaves picked and chopped

Preheat oven to 450°F with a wire rack placed in the middle. Bring stock to a boil in a saucepan. Meanwhile, toss the wild mushrooms with garlic, oil, salt and several grinds of pepper in a 1 1/2- to 2-quart shallow baking dish. Top with butter and set aside. Once stock comes to a boil, place the porcini mushrooms in a heatproof bowl and pour in just enough hot stock to cover.
Leave for a couple of minutes until they’ve softened. Remove and set aside, reserving the soaking liquid. (I find it unnecessary to chop the porcini as I like bigger bites of mushrooms to make the rice a party.) Keep the rest of the stock on a very low simmer.

In a large pan, heat a glug of olive oil and add the onion and celery. Slowly fry without browning them, on low heat, for at least 10 minutes. Turn the heat up and add the rice. Give it a stir with a wooden spoon. Add in the vermouth/wine of your choice and keep stirring until the liquid has cooked into the rice. Pour in the porcini soaking liquid into the pan. Add the porcini, a good pinch of salt and the first ladle of hot stock.

Turn the heat down to a simmer and keep adding ladlefuls of hot stock, stirring and gently massaging the starch out of the rice, allowing each ladleful to be absorbed before adding the next.
About 10 minutes into this (after the 2 rounds of stock), put the prepared wild mushrooms into the oven and roast till tender, golden and bubbly garlic sauce forms below, this will take about 15 to 20 minutes. While the mushrooms are roasting, carry on adding stock until the rice is soft but with just a slight bite. This will take about another 20 minutes, just about the time the roasted mushrooms are done.

Take the risotto off the heat and check the seasoning carefully. Stir in the butter and a little bit of cheese. The risotto should be creamy and oozy in texture, so add a bit more stock or cheese depending on its consistency at this point. Put a lid over the pan and leave the rice to relax for about 3 minutes. During this time, remove the roasted mushrooms from the oven and stir in lemon juice and mixture of herbs.

Dish out the rested risotto into serving plates. Crack over some black pepper, top each plate with some of the dressed roasted mushrooms, add a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and if desired, a bit more freshly grated Parmesan. Serve immediately.




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